Knitwear Design Technology

In this chapter we begin by rationalising the importance of design and technological knowledge for knitwear specialists and briefly discuss the growth of the knitwear industry; an industry sector that was revolutionised by influential designers at particular times during the 20th century, and has continued to be an important sector of today’s fashion and textiles industry.
We introduce the processes of machine produced knitwear with a brief discussion of circular knit and flatbed fabric production which leads to the characteristics of knitted fabrics and making-up technologies before outlining the four garment production types:
• Fully cut or cut & sew
• Cut stitch shaped
• Fully fashioned
• Integral knitting and new full garment technology
We discuss and demonstrate how to recognise the key garment production methods integrating basic knit-garment styles and design features (hems, necklines, sleeve shapes and fastenings including button-holing) relating these where relevant to trends.
Garment specifications and sample garments (prototypes) are discussed and further production techniques and technologies are given associated with garment finishing plus a mock-factory layout is provided. Computer-aided design (CAD) is briefly made reference to and the stitch manipulation types used to create a range of knit fabrics are described. To conclude, the chapter highlights trend forecast sources specific to knitwear. While knit fabrics can be used for a number of garment types such as t-shirts and undergarments, as well as popular accessories such as hats, scarves, gloves and socks, this chapter focuses on the type of garments more generally associated with the term knitwear which includes sweaters, cardigans, knitted dresses, skirts and outer-wear. Some retailers refer to cardigans and sweaters as jersey wear due to the basic stitch type of the fabric.
Traditionally knit textbooks either focus only on design, or on technology, or they discuss the two as separate entities making it difficult to appreciate how they work together and how they are dependent on each other. All knit specialists, be they designers or technologists, require a sound understanding of fibres, yarns, dyeing and finishing that can be found in other chapters in this book. Such knowledge is essential for all fashion and textile professionals. In order to connect design and technology in the context of knitwear the topics in this chapter combine the technicalities and the practicalities of knitwear production for a more fully integrated design technology approach to the understanding of this subject.