Second Skin

This research investigates pattern-cutting via mould making techniques for body conscious, contoured clothing for the costume industry. Through considerable experience as a costume maker I recognised a gap in knowledge and documentation for this pattern cutting technique. Previous experiments revealed ways to create body distorting and contoured shapes by wrapping the body, marking up seam lines and cutting into this to create accurate patterns. This method also allows for a diversity of abstract seams and manipulation of the body. The research seeks to expand and explore these approaches through a series of three-dimensional experiments, which include contouring the body with moulds to achieve abstract and sculptural form to explore the capabilities, advantages and restrictions of the technique. It also aims to inform the development of a teaching aid that allows students to translate the three dimensional form into a two dimensional pattern, a format that initiates the exploration of the relationship between traditional pattern pieces and the body. This will expand the range of documented techniques available for costume students and professionals, allowing practitioners to draw complex style lines directly onto the body shape and inanimate objects. The research includes a variety of methodologies that investigate technical, pedagogical and historical approaches to contoured pattern cutting. Object based research considers the design and manufacture of body conscious garments. Action based research and semi-structured interviews with practitioners and academics consider the skills costume makers utilise to produce contoured clothing and the ethics connected with taking the mould and drawing styles directly onto the body. In order to contextualise the practical investigations, an extensive literature review analyses both contemporary and historical research into contoured clothing.